Wednesday, September 20, 2006

an old post about kashmir

Hi Kavita,
Have resisted baring my Kashmiri memories on this forum for quite some time given you folks doing such a beautiful job of it! Let me give it a try now:

A few Glass beads:

Memories have a strange way of creeping up on you when you are least prepared, like the early morning snow after those dry gray cold days of Autumn in Kashmir. My autumn was always spent in Srinagar, as the days became shorter and people started deserting Kashmir for warmer Jammu. My valley was left alone for the chinar leaves, a gray sky and me. Often I would wear my duckback shoes, dress myself in multiple layers against the cold and start going up the Shankarachariya hill, I would stop at the point on the stairs where you could see the entire Dal Lake with its toy house boats and majestic hills at a distance. There, I would meditate and knowing that Vivekananda had perhaps meditated at the same place, I’d get goose pimples! My gaze would sweep across the expense from the serpentine Jhelum on my left, to Pari Mehal on my right; my mind was spread out in azure.

The walk down was actually a run, a flight, a soaring Johnathan Swift with duckback shoes! Even now, a few decades later, I still dream of that flight, a light hop off the rocks and a soft landing as I eye the roof of the Burn Hall School. I used to walk over to Shri Partap Museam Library and to the “elders section” where an elderly pious Muslim gentleman explained the allegory of “fever” in Tagore’s Geetanjali to me. I was a teenager with no friends, I was, as Naruda says, a soul clenched with sadness.

Kavita, I was born and brought up in Kashmir and spent 20 long winters there... I was the pink-cheeked urchin you may have seen in the streets of downtown (ZainaKadal) with a torn “pheran” (a kind of winter gown) and the plastic shoes. It was me who jumped into the Jhelum for you to click a nice photo of the river, Shah Hamadan sahib’s khankhah (Shah Hamadan brought Islam to Kashmir in the 13th century / a common shrine of Hindu’s and Muslim’s in downtown Kashmir) and the old wooden bridge itself.

I felt one with the streams, the river at Pahalgam, the snow covered slopes at Gulmarg and those endless Shikara (a small boat) rides in Dal Lake was my temporal expression! I studied at the banks of Dal Lake and during the month of Ramazan, we’d walk down to the Hazratbal Shrine to idle away our time as our Muslim friends prayed.

”You are going to ask: and where are the lilacs?
and the poppy-petalled metaphysics?
and the rain repeatedly spattering
its words and drilling them full
of apertures and birds?
I'll tell you all the news.” – Neruda

So, my friends, one fine day we left our home, the home where I learnt my roller skating in the lobby, where my mother planted those Marigolds and I tasted my first icicle. I read my first Russell (“on Education”!), Gorky, Tagore, Marquez and Tolstoy. Those where the heady days! I fell in love and rose in unrequited desire. I wrote those long love letters in verse and smeared a few pages with the white rose and my blood. We didn’t have red roses in winter and I was reading Oscar Wilde. Those were the days of greatest hope and that was the winter of despair – 1990. It was a very plain “Leave within 24 hours, you traitors – Area Command - Hizbul Mujahideen” note. It was very economical in its expression, unlike our valley, which was overabundant.

Malyiva Nagar is a quasi slum in the southern part of multiple extensions of Delhi. A small service lane led to a heavy blue door with no door bell as you could knock at the window to draw the resident’s attention any time. A dented can of coke served as an ashtray and we discussed Darwin’s missive on love and our own interpretations of the glass bead game of life. Hesse or Plato, Neruda or Marquez, Naipaul or our own free verse, we were spoilt for choices to get drunk on... till we discovered Van Gogh ( letters/Irving Stone/prints..everything!)... a new bible was found for us Dubliners..

So I submit to you, the jury, an incomplete defense of our lives, you, the honorable ones! Of powdered wigs, authorized to judge and condemn with the shiver of a quill.

The prosecution has asked us the question: Why do u live? Kashmiri Pandits in exile...in nauseam...

Honourable members, our case begs no mercy, but we beg understanding and warmth. It is not a cry for help nor a Abdul Gilanesque “Free Kashmir” slogan. Our split lives may have the iron of your warmth in our souls, as we bleed.... anywhere...



addendum:



Dear Gilani sahab,
Kashmir is our shared homeland and I respect your viewpoint and sentiments. Part of my family is still in Srinagar-Kashmir and with God's grace are safe and doing well.

Last 15 years or so have seen a lot of bloodshed and it has been a continual pain for both residents of Kashmir and armed forces who serve there. You do know that Kashmiri ethos is not 700 years old, but predates it by thousands of years. Islam came to kashmir is 13th century and people readily embraced it. As a result we still have "shared" places of worship in most places (Khaniyaar, Reshpeer etc.). My point is that we need to start formulating the "Kashmir problem" in terms of our unique identity, isolation and finally political mess up, in that order!

From identity perspective, Gilani sahab, it is not a Muslim or a hindu issue (unless u happen to be a paid member of interest group), even now, my aunty visits AashMukaan every now to pray for peace. I know of many Muslims, who had a great respect for hindu shrines and our shared sufi traditions. Need I remind you of Nund Resh (Sheikh Nooruddin) and Lal Ded??
Now we come to the isolation bit: with hardly any interaction with the outside world, Kashmiris have traditionally been very closed community and have had a little inkling of changes happening all over the world. The xenophobia is a result of that isolation.
Third is the political mess: you know the facts, lies and in-between of all of it! You know that the living standard in Kashmir is 2nd best (after Chandigarh) in whole of India, not because people are very enterprising, but because government is flush with "appeasement" funds and corruption is rampant.
IMHO, the kashmir problem is an identity crisis, a problem of isolation and political mishandling by Kashmiris. I guess we need to wake up and educate ourselves for next few decades, breathe fresh air of globalization, nourish our traditions and not destroy them. Freedom is our choosing, let us educate our kids and hope they are not as blind as we were to elect blind leaders. Let's give "Kashmir problem" a break and open our minds to the world. Let us shut up and listen, for a change!
Gilani sahab, in closing this writeup, let me mention that you indeed are my big hope, at least you are reading this blog and hopefully would listen more than talk. Just look within yourself and make an honest assessment, what do you *really* want for our people. I, for one, want "azaadi" (freedom), freedom from dogma, freedom from manipulation of petty sloganeering masses, freedom to learn the magic of this natural world, freedom to make an honest living and freedom to access the world of information.
I know that world has been unfair to us, but we have been unfair to ourself for too long...
best regards
-rakesh mawa

1 comment:

rekha bajpe said...

Blew my mind!!! am drowning in is nostalgia...this one of the most beautiful, lucid n controlled articles i have read on the subject and believe me, i have read quite a few... if i can feel about kashmir the way i do after spending just two years there, i can only begin to imagine your pain...and your anger...
could you please put links to this on the school group....i'm sure others would love to read these as well...
more power to your pen, rakesh...may your thoughts always flow like the waters of the jhelum and may your pen never run out of ink...